Make a Leather Spined Hardbound Book
This process is derived from the process of making a suitable professional book.
I like good-looking books very much, and sometimes I like to bind computer prints so they look good on my shelf.
Obviously, you can make simple changes to your book, but it depends on you (
I will explain something that might be useful to you).
This particular process is required: 4 x A5 sketch pads 2mm thick gray card is about 0.
5mm white cards of spinal structure (or similar)
For the spine of the Cotton Belt, help bind the page masking tape (18mm wide)Glue (PVA)
Usually the best, because when it is dry, it is still a flexible contact adhesive for bonding leather and a beautiful paper for the cover. (
There are other things if you want to make it cooler)
Some of the tools that may also help: fix the clips of various sizesa nail guns together, fix the craft knives, pencils, steel feet, scissors and paper together, I1.
2mm gray card (
Or what thickness card do you have)
Align the spine of the sketch pad to an edge, measure around the A5 sketch pad, and add about 8-
9mm to the top and bottom, 15mm to the front of the book.
In this example, I doubled the card (
I feel better with a thick cover.
If so, stick together and make 4mm2.
In order to flush the leather spine with the finished product, we need to \"gouge\" the area where the spine is covered.
I have decided to have a 50mm leather spine on the cover.
Score along a line 50mm from the edge of the spine.
The lid score on the edge is about 1-
2mm gray card (
This will vary depending on the thickness of the leather you have). 3.
Also cut out this roll of cards on the cover and side. 4.
When the leather folds to the lower side of the lid, you also need to SAG these places.
Cut about 10mm in these lower side areas. add a step. . .
Polish the side of the card into a circle or chamfer so that they are smoother and easier to hold. 1.
The spine is an integral part of the way the book is put together and the look after the leather is finished.
Put all the sketch pads together with the lid and measure the length of a white card. Add about 2-
Side 4mm, allowing the curve to be placed in the spine. 2.
In general, the spine needs to be tilted (e.
G layers stick together so cut 3-
4 in step 1)3.
Place a slight twist in the middle of the spine by bending.
Once bent, this spine should be flush with the thickness of the gray card cover and A5 sketch pad. 4.
On the first curved spine, place 2 masking tape on the length of both sides of the card.
This will be used to fix the cover on the spine and the quality book. 5.
Use the pva glue from step 2 to other curved cards at the top of the card.
Fixed in place in a curved position.
Once dry, this should keep its shape. 1.
Arrange the cover on the selected face cover paper. 2.
Cut around the lid, allowing 15-
20mm per side
These will be wrapped up to cover the sides of the lid. 3.
Cover with pva glue.
Spread the glue evenly before applying it to the card.
Make sure there are no wrinkles on the face paper.
Put under a whole pile of books to make sure the cards dry. 4.
When the paper meets the chiseled spine area, glue the paper and try to flatten to make the edges clear and sharp (
The leather will insert the sealing paper here.
I made this edge sharp with a metal ruler and clipped it in place. 5.
The edges need to be folded to the lower side of each lid.
Fold each side first and cut it out so that a part of the paper will cover the front edge.
Glue and press in place.
Trim the extended part so that the front flaps can be folded. 6.
The front flaps need to cut corners so the finished product looks neat and tidy.
In the final step, these edges will be overwritten by an internal page. . .
I painted a beautiful gloss on the cover with an acrylic spray and protected it. 1.
Remove the front and back flaps of the sketch pad. 2.
A5 pages need to be protected together so they don\'t show up in a lifetime.
I found that the easiest way is to nail these together.
I used 4 A5 sketchbooks so this is necessary but if your page is already stuck together then you can skip this step.
In any case, make sure all pages are sitting together. 3.
Hammer down the staples so they can sit down flat. Add a step. . .
If you like, you can insert sections at this point.
This can be very useful, for example, if you want to make recipes. 1.
Apply a good paste at the end of the spine of the page. 2.
Cut a cotton with a width of about 3 times the thickness of the total page and place the middle of the cotton on the page to absorb the pva glue.
The edges of the cotton also fold. 3.
Continue to saturate cotton with pva glue.
The end flaps need to be folded.
The finished product will be neatly folded without showing cotton egdes. add a step. . .
I marked the page with a ribbon.
Stick it to the cotton spine with invisible adhesive. 1.
Place the spine in place and tie the spine to the cover of the book with masking tape.
The spine will stretch out from the end of the book --
This will fit the cover when in place. 2.
Place the cover on the book to fit the spine and apply masking tape from the spine to the cover.
Make sure you push the tape into the gap between the spine and the lid.
This will give you the classic spine you see on professional books.
This also allows the lid to open easily. 3.
Open the cover and tape the underside between the cover and the book.
Ideally, both sides of the tape meet and stick together. 4.
Repeat for two covers. 1.
Cut a piece of leather of the right size.
Make sure there is a lot of overlap and cutting when you go as if the piece is too small and you need to replace it.
Leather needs to be wrapped from front to back including spine thickness. 2.
I used the contact adhesive for this part because it is dry fast and strong.
Apply the glue to the two surfaces to be glued, leave for a few minutes and stick together.
Start with the front cover first because it is easier to do well.
Pair the leather into a well-outlined groove and stick it down. 3.
Repeat to the spine, make sure the leather is pushed into the groove between the spine and the lid.
I pressed it down with a card. 4.
Glue and fold the side flaps to the top of the lid and to the top of the spine.
You may need to cut a section between the lid and the spine to fold properly.
Repeat at the bottom. 5.
Repeat it with the back cover.
Don\'t loosen the leather, but loosen it. 1.
The final steps include covering the inside of the book, the front and back of the cover.
I printed something on these pages, but you can keep it blank.
The page should be A5 wide and about 50mm long to stick to the gray card cover.
Align the inner page with the front corner page of the book, creases where this page meets the cover. 2.
Put a masking tape on the lower side of the crease.
This will make the region stronger. 3.
Use contact adhesive to stick the card to the cover part. 4.
Stick a small part of the white card to the book.
All you need to do is cover the masking tape.
You can also fold here if needed so that the page can be easily folded. 5.
Stick another card to the gray card with glue.
This card will hide the edge of the cover on the lower side of the cover and the white card flap just placed.
Make sure the card is in 5-
10mm from the edge of the cover, or match the A5 width. 6.
Repeat on the back. 7.
The book is finished now.
Let it dry before you show a masterpiece to friends and family!